Bars and cafés in the city centre are mostly Russian-inflected and resolutely local — which is part of the appeal. Local Latvian beers like Valmiermuiža and Bauskas are on tap alongside the ubiquitous Riga Black Balsam, the bitter herbal spirit that appears wherever you go in Latvia. The atmosphere is unpretentious, prices are low, and you're unlikely to encounter many other tourists. A decent way to spend an evening in a city that rewards curiosity.