The headline attraction is the Daugavpils Fortress, a monumental 19th-century star-shaped fortification that ranks among the largest preserved military complexes in Eastern Europe. Within its walls sits the Mark Rothko Art Centre, an unexpectedly excellent museum honouring the abstract expressionist painter who was born in Daugavpils in 1903. The combination of imposing brick ramparts and world-class modern art makes for a memorable afternoon.
The old town rewards a wander, with an unusual concentration of churches representing the city's many religious communities — Orthodox, Catholic, Lutheran, and Old Believer. Beyond the city, the Latgale lake district stretches east, offering easy escapes into nature.