The old town of Ventspils is small, low, and almost preternaturally tidy — pastel-coloured 18th- and 19th-century houses, neat cobbled streets, painted wooden window frames, fresh flowers in window boxes. It is the most striking demonstration in the country of what serious municipal investment can do for a small historic centre.
The walk from the castle to the river fountain, through Tirgus iela and the small market square, takes 15 minutes and covers most of the old town. The atmosphere is calm, almost suburban — a working town that has decided to take care of itself.