Valletta's drinking scene has been transformed since the city became European Capital of Culture in 2018. The area around St George's Square and Merchants Street has the highest concentration of cafes, but the most atmospheric spots are in the backstreets and converted palazzos. Strait Street — the old sailors' haunt that was off-limits to officers — has been revived as a bar strip. Pastizzerias serving flaky ricotta or mushy-pea pastizzi are the definitive Maltese street food and the best cheap fuel between sightseeing.