Valletta packs an extraordinary density of history into its compact grid. The city was purpose-built by the Knights of St John after the Great Siege of 1565, and almost every street holds a palace, church, or fortification from that era. St John's Co-Cathedral alone is worth a trip to Malta — its gilded interior, Caravaggio painting, and mosaic floor of 400 knights' tombstones are extraordinary. From the Upper Barrakka Gardens you get the classic view over the Grand Harbour — then take the ferry across to the Three Cities for a perspective back at Valletta's honey-stone bastions.
Walk the Bastions for continuous harbour views and a sense of the city's military engineering. The Grand Masters' Palace and its Armoury on Republic Street tell the story of the Knights' rule over Malta. The National Museum of Archaeology, in the Auberge de Provence, is the best place to understand Malta's prehistoric culture before visiting the temples. The Lascaris War Rooms underground complete the picture with Malta's Second World War story.
Don't miss Strait Street — the former sailors' quarter, recently revived — for the most atmospheric evening walk in the city. Casa Rocca Piccola offers a rare glimpse into a continuously occupied Knights-era palazzo. The Manoel Theatre, Fort St Elmo, the Saluting Battery noon cannon, and the Mysterium Fidei underground monastery complete a city that genuinely rewards several days.