Harlingen is at its best in summer, when the harbours fill with traditional ships and the terraces stay open till late. The key events are the Vlootdagen (Fleet Days) in late August or early September — three days when the inner harbours fill with historic Frisian sailing ships, the streets are closed to traffic, and there is music and food along the quays. The Tall Ships Race stops in Harlingen periodically; check the year in advance.
Winter is bitterly cold and windy off the Wadden, but the ice-covered harbours and the lit-up sailing-ship masts are atmospheric. Cycling along the dike towards Kornwerderzand on a clear winter day is one of the best half-day outings in northern Friesland.