Kazandžijsko Sokače — the Coppersmiths' Alley — was once a busy Ottoman-era craft street where metalworkers hammered out copper vessels, tools, and decorative objects. Today the cobblestones are still there, the narrow lane is still lined with low traditional buildings, but the craftsmen have mostly been replaced by kafanas, wine bars, and restaurants that get extremely lively in the evening.
This is where Niš goes to eat and drink. The places range from old-school Serbian taverns with accordions and roasted meats to more modern spots with good wine lists and a younger crowd. In summer, tables spill onto the cobblestones and the whole alley becomes one long outdoor dining room. It is reliably busy from around 7pm until late, and the atmosphere is genuinely warm and unselfconscious in a way that feels very Serbian.
Kazandžijsko Sokače is an easy ten-minute walk from either the fortress or the main King Milan Square. It is the social heart of the city for visitors and locals alike, and the obvious place to start an evening in Niš.