The cluster of tapas bars around Plaza de la Iglesia and the side streets running north from Calle Málaga are where you should eat in Arroyo de la Miel. These are not tourist restaurants — menus are in Spanish, portions are generous, and a glass of wine with a free tapa costs less than a euro fifty. Look for the local specialities: boquerones fritos (fresh anchovies fried whole), gambas al pil-pil (prawns in garlic oil), and jamón serrano carved to order. The kitchen at most places does not really get going until two in the afternoon for lunch, or nine in the evening for dinner — arrive early and you will be the only one there.