Seville is one of the great tapas cities of the world — the format is said to have been invented here (the word tapa means "lid", and comes from the slice of bread once used to cover a glass of sherry to keep the flies out). The local style is small, cheap, plate after plate, and eaten standing at the bar. Look out for espinacas con garbanzos (spinach and chickpeas), carrillada (slow-braised pork cheeks), pescaito frito (tiny fried fish), solomillo al whisky, salmorejo (a chilled tomato-and-bread soup thicker than gazpacho) and, in season, caracoles (snails). The historic Barrio Santa Cruz and Alameda de Hércules have the greatest concentration of good bars; for a more authentic, less touristy experience, cross the river to Triana, where the streets around Calle Betis and the Mercado de Triana have some of the best simple seafood in the city. Finish with a glass of fino or manzanilla — the dry sherry from nearby Jerez and Sanlúcar that is the traditional pairing — or a glass of ice-cold orange wine (vino de naranja) for a local twist.