If you eat one dish in Oviedo, make it fabada asturiana — and if you want the best version, seek out a place that takes the dish seriously rather than treating it as a menu standard. The key is the fabes de la Granja (large white beans), slow-cooked with compango — the trio of chorizo, morcilla, and lacón that gives the stew its depth. Good fabada should be creamy, rich, and deeply savoury without being greasy.
Several restaurants in the old town do excellent versions. The dish is traditionally a lunch affair — it is too heavy for dinner. Order it with a glass of sidra and a starter of Cabrales cheese, and you have experienced the core of Asturian cooking in a single sitting.