Laguardia is not a late-night town. What it does well is the late-morning coffee and the long afternoon glass of wine — both conducted unhurriedly in stone-vaulted bars where not much has changed for decades. Wine bars (bodegas bar) are the dominant form, and the thing to drink is always local: a crianza or reserva from Rioja Alavesa, or a glass of the area's characterful white Viura. The Plaza Mayor and Calle Mayor are where most of the action concentrates.