El Bierzo cooking belongs to its own world, distinct from both Castilian and Galician. The signature dish is botillo, a smoked sausage of pork ribs, tail and tongue, boiled slowly and served with cabbage, chickpeas and potatoes. It is heavy winter food but eaten across the seasons; ask for it at any traditional restaurant in Villafranca or Cacabelos.
The other regional specialities are pimientos del Bierzo — broad, sweet roasted peppers protected by DO — and river trout (trucha al Bierzo, cooked with smoked bacon). Mencía is the wine. La Moncloa de San Lázaro in Cacabelos and Mesón Don Nacho in Ponferrada both keep traditional menus; book ahead at weekends.