Plaza Mayor

Completed in 1729 to designs by Alberto Churriguera, the Plaza Mayor is widely regarded as the finest baroque town square in Spain — perfectly enclosed, arcaded on all four sides, and lined with medallion portraits of Spanish monarchs and notables. One medallion, originally bearing Franco's likeness, was deliberately left defaced after his death; the city has never restored it, making it a quiet political statement in stone.

The square is the social heart of Salamanca at any hour, but it is magical at dusk when the warm Villamayor sandstone turns deep gold and students fill the terrace cafés. In winter, it is strung with lights; at Easter, it is the centrepiece of the Semana Santa processions. Come back at midnight and you'll find it still busy.

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