Lugo runs on the Galician tapas custom: in virtually every bar in the old town, a drink comes with a free tapa, served without asking. The portions are generous by any standard — a croquette, a slice of empanada, a piece of grilled meat, or a small plate of pulpo á feira (octopus with paprika and olive oil on potato). The concentration of bars around Praza do Campo, Rúa da Cruz and Rúa Nova means you can move between five or six places in an evening and eat well without ever ordering food.
The local wine is Ribeiro — a light, slightly fizzy white from the Galician interior — though the Mencía reds from the Ribeira Sacra valley a short drive south are increasingly popular and worth seeking out. Pulpo á feira is the classic local dish; Lugo claims to make the definitive version.