Eating Out

The food in Valdeorras is straightforward Galician — which is to say, it's good. Grilled meats dominate the restaurant menus: churrasco (pork ribs with smoky paprika sauce), lacón (cured shoulder), and whatever the local butcher is proud of that week. In O Barco's bars you'll find small plates of empanada, fried pimientos de Padrón when they're in season, cured chorizo, and local cheeses. The wine-bar culture here is relaxed and unpretentious — a plate of something salty and a glass of Godello is the format, and no one rushes you.

Galicia is a serious food region, and even in a small town like O Barco you'll find kitchens that take the raw materials seriously. The Sil valley's altitude and slate soils suit lamb and beef as much as vines, and slow-cooked lamb dishes appear on menus in autumn and winter. If you're visiting during the harvest weeks in September and October, some wineries host informal harvest lunches for their pickers — worth asking about. Don't overlook the bars in smaller villages like A Rúa and Vilamartín, where the food is often better than you'd expect and the Godello is poured at cellar temperature.