Valdeorras is essentially a wine region that you explore by moving from vineyard to vineyard along the Sil valley, stopping in slate-roofed villages along the way. The terraced vineyards on near-vertical hillsides are the visual signature of the comarca, and driving or cycling the valley roads means passing through them constantly. The town of O Barco de Valdeorras is the natural base — it has the most services, a weekly market, and a handful of decent bars and restaurants.
Wine touring is the main draw, but the landscape is genuinely spectacular even if you don't drink. The Sil river canyon downstream feeds into the famous Ribeira Sacra canyon, and the walking here is excellent — steep forested slopes, river views, and almost no one else around. The villages of Rubiá and O Bolo are worth a detour for their vernacular stone architecture, slow pace, and glimpses of a rural Galicia that hasn't changed much in a century.