Right beside the Pedra oyster market, this small bar is the best place to continue the shellfish session after eating oysters at the stone counters outside. The mussels are steamed to order, the Ribeiro white comes in traditional tazas (ceramic bowls), and the vibe is unhurried and local. Chairs spill out onto the cobbles when the weather allows.
The Berbés quarter has a handful of bars of this quality, all within a few minutes' walk of each other. A Pedra is the most atmospheric of them — old stone walls, smoke-darkened beams, and a clientele that takes its afternoon wine seriously. Open from mid-morning; gets busy at lunch and again from early evening.