One of the classic tabernas in the Casco Vello, Taberna do Cándido serves straightforward Galician cooking at honest prices — grilled fish from the ría, empanada (a filled pastry, savoury, stuffed with tuna or octopus), caldo gallego (broth with greens and beans), and the inevitable pulpo á feira. The wine list is short and local: Albariño from Rías Baixas and red Mencía from nearby Ribeira Sacra.
The setting is authentically old town: bare stone walls, wooden tables, a counter lined with bottles. It fills up by 9pm with locals rather than tourists, which is a reliable indicator of quality. Reservations not required but advisable on weekends.