Aranjuez sits about 50 kilometres south of Madrid on the banks of the Tagus, and has been a royal retreat since the time of Philip II. The town is officially designated a Royal Site and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it shows — the scale and grandeur of the place is entirely out of proportion to its modest size.
The Royal Palace is the centrepiece, but the real draw is the gardens: the formal Parterre alongside the palace, the shaded island garden (Jardín de la Isla), and the vast Jardín del Príncipe stretching along the Tagus for two kilometres. The Casa del Labrador, a small neoclassical palace decorated in a wild mix of Rococo, Imperial, and Pompeian styles, is at the far end of the Jardín del Príncipe and worth the detour. The Museum of Royal Barges nearby contains the extraordinary gilded pleasure boats the royal family used on the river.
Beyond the monuments, Aranjuez is a pleasant place to stroll. The streets and squares have a relaxed, unhurried feel, and the town is famous for its strawberries and asparagus — both grown in the alluvial soil along the Tagus and at their best in spring. In May and June you can ride the historic Strawberry Train from Madrid, a vintage steam service with strawberry tastings on board. The 18th-century bullring and bullfighting museum are also worth a visit.