The Café Iruña has occupied the eastern arcade of Plaza del Castillo since 1888. The interior is unchanged in its essentials: ornate ironwork, painted mirrors, mahogany counters, and a high coffered ceiling. It is not cheap, but it is an institution, and the coffee is good.
Hemingway drank here regularly during his San Fermín years, and there is a life-sized bronze of him leaning on the bar. Ignore the statue and find a table under the arcade outside in summer. This is the seat from which Pamplona has always watched itself going past.