Visby eats very well for a town of 25,000. The Gotland larder is exceptional — lamb from the island's heath-grazed flocks, asparagus from Hablingbo, truffles from the limestone soils inland, fresh-caught flounder and herring, and the famous Gotland saffron pancake. Most restaurants close for winter and reopen in May.
Bakfickan, on Stora Torget, serves no-nonsense Swedish fish dishes — gravlax, fish stew, smoked salmon — in a relaxed indoor-outdoor setting. Lilla Bjers, in a converted farmhouse 5 km outside town, is a serious destination kitchen using mostly its own farm produce; reserve weeks ahead in summer. For an open-fire option, Surfers down on the harbour grills the catch of the day right on the quay.
For casual lunches, the bakeries on Stora Torget sell Gotlandsbullar (the local saffron pancake with cream and dewberry jam) and good open sandwiches. Visby Glassbar, near Almedalen, has gelato made with Gotland berries that justifies a stop on every walk.