Orkney's main attractions divide into the Neolithic — Skara Brae, the Ring of Brodgar, the Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe, and a dense cluster of cairns and tombs in the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site — and the everything-else: medieval Kirkwall, the seabird cliffs of the smaller islands, the Old Man of Hoy, the wrecks of Scapa Flow, the distilleries, and the long empty beaches. Allow at least a week.