Orkney is an archipelago of about 70 islands off the northern tip of Scotland, and it is one of the most remarkable places in Britain. People have lived here for at least 5,000 years, and the evidence is everywhere: Skara Brae, a Neolithic village older than the pyramids, sits on the shore of the Bay of Skaill with its stone beds and dressers still intact. The Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness stand in the landscape as they have for millennia. Maeshowe, a chambered cairn, was broken into by Vikings who left runic graffiti on the walls.
The islands are green, treeless, and wind-scoured, with big skies and long summer evenings. The Mainland is the largest island and holds the capital, Kirkwall, with its red sandstone St. Magnus Cathedral — one of the finest medieval buildings in Scotland. Stromness, the other main town, is a narrow street of stone houses pressed against the harbour, with the sea visible down every alley.
Beyond the archaeology and the towns, Orkney is a place of seabird cliffs, seals, and empty beaches. Hoy has the Old Man — a 137-metre sea stack. The smaller islands (Rousay, Westray, Papa Westray, Sanday) are quieter still. The ferry from Scrabster or the plane from Edinburgh or Glasgow gets you here. Once arrived, you will want to stay longer than you planned.