The walk north from Alice Town along the harbour road brings you to a string of small wooden stands in Bailey Town where conch is cut to order. Joe's is the best known. The conch goes from shell to ceviche in front of you — diced raw, mixed with diced onion, tomato, hot pepper, lime and sour orange — in the time it takes to drink a Kalik.
Cracked conch (pounded, breaded, fried) and conch fritters are the other staples. The setting is plastic chairs under a roof of corrugated iron, a view across the channel to South Bimini, and a steady stream of locals and a few visitors. It is the best meal on the island for the money.