Eight Mile Rock, about 13 kilometres west of central Freeport, is where Grand Bahama feels most genuinely Bahamian. The community has wooden houses, a working fishing harbour, and churches that serve as the social backbone of the neighbourhood — a contrast to the planned resort development that defines most of the island.
The local fish fry on weekend evenings is one of the best in Grand Bahama: vendors set up along the roadside selling fresh-caught fish, conch, and cracked lobster at prices well below what anything similar costs in Port Lucaya. The harbour is worth a look in the early morning when boats come in. The drive west from Freeport is straightforward on the main road. Most visitors come specifically for the weekend fish fry, which starts around sunset and runs late.