The valley's tobacco farms are one of the genuine highlights of a visit. Several farms welcome visitors for free or a small donation, showing you the process from curing shed to hand-rolled cigar. The curing barns — wooden structures with slatted walls full of drying leaves — are a distinctive feature of the landscape. Inside, the smell of tobacco is overwhelming and extraordinary.
A farmer will typically roll a cigar in front of you and explain the varieties. Buying a few from the farm directly supports the local grower rather than the state enterprise. Ask your casa particular for a recommended farm — the genuinely good ones are working farms that happen to welcome visitors, not tourist operations.