The single road along La Désirade's southern coast runs about ten kilometres from end to end, connecting the ferry dock at Grande-Anse to the beaches and villages at the western tip. On foot it takes most of a day at a gentle pace with stops; on a bicycle, less than two hours. The road is flat along the coast and rises where it crosses the ridge to reach the northern side of the island.
The northern shore is the dramatic part. The cliffs drop steeply into the Atlantic and the wind comes in hard off the open ocean. There is nothing between La Désirade's northern coast and Africa. The landscape up here is arid scrubland — cacti, thorny acacia, and the occasional iguana moving through it all with the unhurried confidence of a species that owns the place. The views down to the breaking surf below are worth the climb from the coast road.
Cyclists and walkers share the road with the occasional car or scooter, but traffic is minimal. The whole circuit is manageable in a half-day, leaving the afternoon for the beach.