Quetzaltenango (Xela)

Guatemala's highland second city, a K'iche' cultural capital better known locally as Xela.

Quetzaltenango — universally called Xela (SHEH-la), from its original K'iche' name Xelajú — is Guatemala's second city and, for many travelers, a more authentic and rewarding base than Antigua. Sitting at 2,333 metres in the western highlands, it is the cultural and commercial capital of K'iche' Maya Guatemala.

The city has a fine neoclassical centre around Parque Centro América, with the Cathedral of the Diocese on one side and the Municipal Theater decorated with busts of local scholars. The market is large, working-class, and real — not oriented toward tourists. To the south, Santa María Volcano (3,772 m) offers one of the best highland panoramas in the country, with Santiaguito's active lava dome visible below the summit on clear mornings. The volcanic hot springs at Fuentes Georginas make for an easy half-day escape into the mountains.

Xela is the second most popular Spanish-language study destination in Guatemala after Antigua, with numerous schools offering competitive rates and more immersive homestay experiences in a less touristic setting. Many students prefer it precisely because daily life is not shaped around foreign visitors.

Getting there: regular buses and shuttles from Guatemala City (about 4 hours), Antigua (about 3 hours), and the Mexican border at La Mesilla.

Guide

Day Trips

The highlands around Quetzaltenango are dense with indigenous market towns, volcanic landscapes, and hot spring complexes. Most destinations are within an hour of the city.

Fuentes Georginas — Natural hot springs in a wooded ravine south of town, 30 kilometres from the city. Volcanic pools, cloud forest setting, cheap entry. The standard half-day excursion.

Zunil — A picturesque K'iche' Maya town in a valley below Quetzaltenango, dominated by an ornate white colonial church. One of the few towns where Maximón, the syncretic folk saint, is actively venerated — the idol changes location from house to house annually.

San Francisco El Alto — A hilltop market town with a Friday livestock market that is one of the most spectacular in the country. Views from the town plaza stretch to Santa María, Cerro Quemado, and the Zunil volcano.

Momostenango — The wool weaving capital of Guatemala, where heavy blankets are still woven on traditional foot looms. The Sunday market is the main draw.

Laguna Chicabal — A sacred crater lake inside Volcán Chicabal, about 45 kilometres from Quetzaltenango. Maya ceremonies take place on the lakeside and the approach through cloud forest is beautiful.

Guide

Eating Out

Somewhere close to Mercado Las Flores, my friend Martha runs a little cafe with the best Gallo Pinto in town. Check it out.

For Tourists, pls, know that Gallo Pinto is not a local food for Guatemala. Try eating out to a local, place such as;

Restaurante Super Antojitos: 9a. Calle, 11-16 zona 01. Quetzaltenango.

Try Ut´z Hua: 12 Avenida 3-02 zona 01. Quetzaltenango. Local Guatemalan Food.

Or Try the Best Fry Chicken: Pollo Campero. The Real Thing. 3 Restaurant in Quetzaltenango.

Contributors August 21, 2006

La Genovese

located two block south of the Municipal Teater you will find the best Italian cuisine with dishes such as the famous Penne with black trouffles and smoked salmon, Penne alla Gorbachov, Spaghetti Amatriciana, fettucinni Alfredo, gnocchi pomodoro, Lasana bolognese, and we can't forget the delicious Tiramisu cake. There is also a good variety of fine wines, home baked bread, fresh salads, and the best of it is the reasonable prices.

type: Italian

tel: 59153231

address: 14 ave. A 3-36 zona 1

email: [email protected]

Guide

Things to Do

Quetzaltenango — Xela to everyone who lives here — is Guatemala's second city and a far more authentic base than the tourist circuit of Antigua and Lago Atitlán. The centre around Parque Centro América is elegant and historic, and the surrounding highlands offer excellent hiking, active volcanoes, and indigenous markets.

Spanish-language schools are numerous and well-regarded; Xela is the second most popular place in Guatemala to study Spanish, with more immersive homestay options and a less tourist-oriented daily life than Antigua.