Standing at 8,371 feet (2,552 meters), the highly active Pacaya Volcano is perhaps the most climbed volcano in Guatemala.
Pacaya's current active phase began in 1965, and the volcano has been almost constantly in eruption since then. Eruptive activity ranges from minor gaseous emissions and quiet steam eruptions to explosions powerful enough to hurl bombs up to 12 kilometers and necessitate the evacuation of numerous villages on the flanks.
The easiest and most secure way to visit is to go with a tour operator. There are numerous agencies in Antigua Guatemala taking groups to Pacaya every day for around $15–$20 per person.
If you have your own transportation and an adventurous spirit, you can go independently. Head south from Guatemala City on the highway to Escuintla, then turn off toward the town of San Vicente Pacaya and Pacaya Volcano National Park before reaching Palín. The sign is not very prominent, so watch carefully.
There are two trails up Pacaya. The more gentle one, followed by most tour groups from Antigua, starts at San Francisco de Sales — the official park entrance, where you pay admission (around Q50–80 for foreign visitors; check current rates). The trail is well maintained with rest stops, rubbish bins, and primitive restrooms, and is patrolled by guardabosques (park rangers). There is safe parking and refreshments available here.
It is a good hike to the base of the Pacaya cone, bringing you to the rim of the old Cerro Chino crater with its magnificent views — the volcanic cones of Acatenango, Fuego, and Agua are all visible. This is where the final steep ascent begins. It is genuinely hard going: a constant process of two steps forward and one step back as you slide in the ash and loose volcanic rock.
The view from the top is well worth the effort. Two immediate hazards to keep in mind: avoid the sulfurous smoke clouds (breathing them in is deeply unpleasant), and watch where you sit — small active vents emit very hot gas that can burn you if you are not careful. The descent is the reward: you essentially ski back down the slope through the ash, fast and exhilarating.