Palacio Cantón — Regional Museum of Anthropology

The finest introduction to Maya culture on the peninsula, in a gilded Beaux-Arts mansion

The Palacio Cantón, on the Paseo de Montejo at the corner of Calle 43, is the finest surviving mansion of the henequen era and houses the Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia de Yucatán. If you visit one museum in Mérida, make it this one: the collections cover the full sweep of Yucatán's pre-Hispanic cultures, from Preclassic settlements through the Classic Maya florescence to the Spanish conquest, and are displayed with unusual intelligence. Stele, jade jewellery, obsidian blades, painted ceramics, and skeletal remains from cenote offerings are all here.

The building itself competes for attention with the exhibits. The Italian marble staircase, painted ceilings, and ornate ironwork were the deliberate display of a man who wanted the world to know he had more money than most European aristocrats. The garden at the back is a good place to sit and collect your thoughts after the galleries. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday; admission charges are modest. There is a useful bookshop with academic publications on Maya archaeology that are not easily found elsewhere.

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A story
The Palacio Cantón was built between 1904 and 1911 for General Francisco Cantón Rosado, a Yucatecan politician who made an enormous fortune in the henequen boom and spent lavishly on Parisian furniture, Italian marble, and a private chapel on the upper floor. Cantón lived in the mansion for only a few years before dying in 1917; it passed through several hands before becoming the governor's residence and eventually the Regional Museum. The general's gilded taste has proved useful — the ornate interiors frame the Maya artefacts more dramatically than a purpose-built museum ever would.