The signature Saint Lucian breakfast is green fig and saltfish — boiled green bananas with salt cod stewed in onion, tomato, and herbs — and the best place to try it in Castries is upstairs in the market, where several small kitchens serve it for around EC$15 from about 7 a.m. Lunch in town is usually a hot lunch box: chicken or fish stew, rice and peas, plantain, and a slaw.
The Coal Pot on Vigie Marina is the city's classic upmarket dinner spot, French-Saint Lucian fusion in a wooden colonial-era building on the water. Pink Plantation House halfway up the Morne is set in a lovely old Creole mansion and is good for a long lunch with a view. For something more relaxed, the rum-shops in the back streets around Marchand serve fried fish, bakes, and decent local Piton beer.