The Salinas

The abandoned salt-evaporation ponds that drove the island's economy from the 17th to the early 20th century

A grid of low stone walls and shallow rectangular ponds covers much of the centre of South Caicos — the abandoned salinas where seawater was once led in, evaporated by sun and wind, and raked into white pyramids for export. Some of the windpump towers, salt-houses, and loading docks still stand, and the brackish remnants of the ponds support roseate spoonbills, herons, ospreys and the occasional flock of flamingos.

It is worth a walk or a slow cycle at sunrise or in the late afternoon, when the light is soft and the salt water reflects pink. The site has no formal entry; just turn off the road and pick your way among the walls.

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A story
South Caicos exported salt to North America for more than 250 years — the small island once supplied a substantial share of the cod-curing trade in New England and Newfoundland. The pans were emptied by hand and the rakers, mostly enslaved Africans and their descendants, worked barefoot in water that destroyed their feet. The industry collapsed in the 1960s when refrigeration replaced salt as a fish preservative.

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