Drinking is something of a civic tradition in Key West. Duval Street is the main artery, lined with open-air bars where the doors stay open and the music spills onto the sidewalk. Sloppy Joe's and Captain Tony's Saloon both claim Hemingway as a former regular — the history is debatable, but the atmosphere is real. Irish Kevin's draws crowds with live music every night. Off Duval, the Green Parrot is a local favorite with no pretensions and no cover charge. For something quieter, the rooftop bar at the La Concha Hotel offers sunset views over the whole island. Coffee drinkers do well at Cuban Coffee Queen, where the cafe con leche is strong and cheap.