Makawao is Maui's upcountry surprise: a former paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town at 450 metres elevation where the air is cool, the light is softer, and the pace is noticeably slower than at the coast. The intersection of Baldwin and Makawao Avenues has the feel of a small Western town that decided to go bohemian — saddlery shops beside gallery spaces, plate lunch joints next to organic cafes.
The town hosts the Makawao Rodeo each 4th of July, one of the oldest rodeos in Hawaii, a reminder that Maui's upcountry had a significant cattle ranching culture long before tourism arrived. The Makawao Union Church (1916) and Saint Joseph Catholic Church are good examples of Maui's architectural heritage. From here, the drive up to Kula and onwards to Haleakalā is easy — many people stop in Makawao for breakfast before the summit push.