Mari's Stella on Atlantic Avenue is the kind of red-sauce family restaurant Wildwood does well — checked tablecloths, generous portions, and a menu that has not changed much in decades. Veal parmigiana, eggplant rollatini, and the linguine with white clam sauce are reliable. Bring a bottle of wine; the corkage is reasonable.
Reservations are essential on summer weekends, especially in July and August. Cash and most cards accepted; service is friendly and brisk rather than polished.