The reason to come is Chaco Culture National Historical Park, an hour's bone-rattling drive south of Nageezi down County Road 7900. Inside the park, a 14 km one-way loop road links the major great houses, each with a short walking trail. Allow a full day to do them justice; longer if you want to hike out to the cliff-top sites of Pueblo Alto and Peñasco Blanco. A free permit at the visitor centre is required for those back-country trails.