Smith Rock State Park

World-class rock climbing destination with dramatic rimrock canyon above the Crooked River

Smith Rock State Park, about 30 miles north of Bend near the town of Terrebonne, is one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Pacific Northwest. The Crooked River has carved a deep canyon through orange and red volcanic tuff, leaving sheer walls and spires up to 500 feet tall that catch the afternoon light in a way that makes photographers chase the golden hour.

For climbers, Smith Rock is a pilgrimage site. More than 2,000 established routes range from beginner slabs to some of the hardest sport climbs in North America. The Monkey Face — a rock formation that looks like exactly what it sounds like — has routes on its nose, chin, and ears. Non-climbers find plenty to do on the trail network that loops through the canyon; the most popular route descends to the river and loops back up the other side, taking about two hours at a steady pace.

Bring water — it gets hot in summer — and be aware that the parking lot fills early on weekends. The park campground is small and fills quickly in high season.

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Smith Rock is widely credited as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing. In 1983, Alan Watts established the first sport route in the United States here — a 5.12 called To Bolt Or Not To Be — using French techniques and bolts that allowed climbers to attempt routes far harder than what traditional gear protection could protect. The debate over bolts versus traditional protection that followed changed American climbing culture.

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