The most famous of the barracas lining Praia de Taperapuan — a large, open-sided beach complex with sun loungers, a stage, and a kitchen that turns out grilled fish, camarão na moranga (prawns in a pumpkin shell), and cold caipirinhas through the day. In high season Axé Moi runs a full daytime programme: a live band plays axé music from mid-morning, and dance instructors lead forró and samba lessons on the sand.
You pay a couvert for the table service and lounger hire; food and drinks are charged separately. It is as much a party as a restaurant and the noise level reflects that. At lunchtime the grilled whole fish — usually badejo or pargo — is the thing to order: served with cassava chips, salad, and a cold beer, it is one of the quintessential Porto Seguro meals.