The Atacama is one of the driest places on earth — some parts of it haven't seen measurable rain in recorded history. Stretching 1,000 kilometres down the northern third of Chile, wedged between the Pacific coast ranges and the Andes, it is also one of the most spectacular landscapes you will ever stand in.
The scenery shifts constantly. You move from white salt flats — the vast Salar de Atacama — to rust-coloured canyons, to the otherworldly rock formations of the Valle de la Luna, to geothermal fields where geysers blow at dawn. Ancient geoglyphs scratch the hillsides: giant animals and figures, including the famous Giant of the Atacama, etched into the desert thousands of years ago. Three species of flamingo wade in the altiplano lagoons. Llamas and vicuñas graze where almost nothing else can.
The hub for all of this is San Pedro de Atacama, a small oasis town with a good range of tour operators, places to eat, and accommodation. Most travellers base themselves there for several days — the desert rewards those who take their time.
Altitude is the main physical challenge. Much of the best scenery sits above 4,000 metres, and some sites approach 5,000 metres. Take a day or two to acclimatise before pushing too high, and drink water constantly.
