Vilcabamba is a small mountain valley town in southern Ecuador's Loja province, sitting at around 1,500 metres in the Andean foothills. It has a long-standing reputation — perhaps exaggerated but persistently told — as a place where people live unusually long lives. Whether or not the centenarian claims hold up to scrutiny, the valley is genuinely beautiful: mild, green, and sheltered by mountains on all sides.
The town draws a steady stream of travellers who come for the hiking, the low cost of living, and the tranquil atmosphere. The valley makes a good base for walks into the Podocarpus National Park, which begins in the hills above town and harbours cloud forest, spectacled bears, and dozens of hummingbird species.
From Loja, regular buses run to Vilcabamba — about 45 kilometres south, taking around an hour and a half for a dollar or two. Coming from Peru via La Balsa is possible but takes the better part of a day: a colectivo from San Ignacio to the border crossing, then a local chiva (truck bus) to Zumba, then onward to Loja or directly to Vilcabamba. The route passes through spectacular mountain scenery. Take enough cash — the last ATM before crossing is in Jaén, and the next is in Loja.