Loja is a quiet university city in Ecuador's southern highlands, close to the Peruvian border. It sits in a fertile valley at about 2,100 metres, surrounded by green hills and some of the country's most biodiverse cloud forests. The city has long been known as the music capital of Ecuador — you will hear live performances in plazas and parks, and the local conservatory has produced many of the country's best-known musicians.
The colonial centre is compact and walkable, with churches, a pleasant central square, and colourful houses along narrow streets. Loja serves as the gateway to Vilcabamba, the "Valley of Longevity" popular with retirees and backpackers alike, and to Podocarpus National Park — one of the most biodiverse protected areas in the world, where the Andes meet the Amazon basin.
The city does not see many foreign tourists, which is part of its appeal. Prices are low, the people are friendly, and the surrounding countryside rewards exploration.