The Rupununi is a vast tropical savannah in southern Guyana, separated from the Amazon basin by the Kanuku Mountains and stretching to the Brazilian border. It is one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in South America and one of the least visited. The combination of open grassland, gallery forest, and seasonally flooded wetlands supports an extraordinary array of wildlife: giant anteaters, giant river otters, giant armadillos, tapirs, capybaras, caimans, anacondas, and more than 500 species of birds. Jaguars are present and occasionally seen.
The human landscape is just as striking. The Rupununi has been ranching territory since the early 20th century, when Scottish and Brazilian families established cattle spreads across the savannah. Their descendants — some now running eco-lodges — still live alongside the Makushi and Wapishana Amerindian communities whose ancestors have been here for thousands of years.
Lethem is the main town, sitting on the Brazilian border. It is small and functional rather than pretty, but serves as the gateway to the region. From Lethem, lodges like Dadanawa Ranch, Caiman House, and Wichabai take guests into the savannah by horseback, boat, and on foot. This is not a zoo experience — the wildlife is wild, the distances are large, and patience is part of the deal.
Getting to the Rupununi means flying from Georgetown's Ogle Aerodrome to Lethem or Annai (roughly 45 minutes), or making the very long overland journey south via the Linden-Lethem road, which is unpaved and can take 12–16 hours depending on conditions. Flying is strongly recommended.