The malecón at Puerto Callao is the working frontage of Lago Yarinacocha — a paved walk between the lake and a strip of rustic restaurants, juice stalls and souvenir shops selling Shipibo work of varying authenticity. The water is lined with brightly painted wooden launches whose pilots tout for trips to the Shipibo villages and dolphin spots.
Late afternoon, around five, is the best time: the heat eases, families come out for ice cream, and the sky over the lake turns through pink and orange. Eat at one of the wooden palapa restaurants — paiche fillets, fried plantain, and a beer for under 30 soles.