Huanchaco

Huanchaco is the beach town that Trujillo doesn't quite have itself — a low-key resort village about 12 kilometres northwest of the city centre, popular with Trujillanos on weekends and with surfers who come for the consistent left-hand reef break. The beach is long and grey-sand, backed by a colonial church on a hill above the malecon.

The main draw, beyond the beach, is the caballitos de totora — ancient reed fishing boats that have been in use here for over 3,000 years. Fishermen still build and ride them in the traditional way; you can watch them early in the morning. Several operators along the beach offer surfing lessons, and the town has a relaxed strip of cevicherías and seafood restaurants along the waterfront.

From Trujillo, take a combi or taxi northwest along the coast road; it's a 20-minute drive.

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The caballito de totora — a small, narrow reed boat with an upturned bow — has been in continuous use here for over 3,000 years. Moche ceramics depict fishermen riding these same boats in virtually the same posture. You can watch fishermen carry them down to the water each morning and ride the waves back in, kneeling on the craft, in a scene essentially unchanged since the Moche empire.

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