Housed in the Fort of São João Baptista de Ajudá, the small Portuguese trading post that was the centre of European slaving operations on this coast for 250 years. Whitewashed walls, a square keep, a small chapel. The galleries trace the history of the trade, the kingdoms of Whydah and Dahomey, and the diaspora — particularly the connection to Bahia in Brazil.
Allow an hour. The captions are mostly in French. The fort itself is part of the experience: walls of West African earth and European stone, slave-holding rooms now empty, a flagpole that still flies the Portuguese flag on one day each year.