Highlights

Africa is big enough that no single trip covers it, and any list of highlights leaves out places that deserve to be on it. What follows are the experiences that travelers return from talking about — the ones that tend to reorder priorities.

The great wildlife migrations. The annual wildebeest migration between Tanzania's Serengeti and Kenya's Masai Mara is the largest overland mammal migration on earth: over a million wildebeest, plus hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, moving in a loop driven by rainfall and grass. The river crossings — where animals plunge into crocodile-filled water — happen between July and October and are the spectacle that photographs fail to convey. But this is just one migration. Botswana's Okavango Delta floods each year, drawing elephants, lions, and wild dogs to an inland sea in the middle of the Kalahari. Zambia's Kasanka National Park hosts the world's largest mammal migration by biomass: ten million straw-coloured fruit bats arriving in November to hang in the trees like a living cloud.

Gorilla and chimpanzee trekking. There are fewer than 1,100 mountain gorillas left in the world, all of them in the Virunga range shared by Rwanda, Uganda, and the DRC. A permit to spend one hour with a habituated gorilla family costs $1,500 in Rwanda, $700 in Uganda — and is usually worth it. The trek through dense forest, the moment you push through undergrowth and find yourself sitting a few meters from a silverback, is unlike anything else. Chimpanzee trekking in Uganda's Kibale Forest or Tanzania's Mahale Mountains is less expensive and equally good.

Ancient civilizations. The pyramids of Giza in Egypt are obvious but correct — they are genuinely awe-inspiring, and the broader Nile Valley from Luxor to Abu Simbel is among the world's great heritage corridors. Less visited and arguably more affecting: the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia, carved downward into volcanic rock in the twelfth century and still functioning as places of worship. The ruins of Great Zimbabwe, once the capital of a powerful medieval trading kingdom, challenge assumptions about pre-colonial African civilization. Egypt's Karnak temple complex at Luxor rewards more time than most visitors give it.

The Sahara and other desert landscapes. The Sahara is the world's largest hot desert, and crossing any part of it — even the short camel trek from Merzouga into Morocco's Erg Chebbi dunes — puts human scale in perspective. Namibia's Namib is older and stranger: the tallest sand dunes on earth rise above white clay pans at Sossusvlei, and the ghost town of Kolmanskop is slowly being swallowed back into the sand. The Danakil Depression in Ethiopia, one of the hottest and lowest places on earth, has sulphurous hot springs and a salt lake that looks like a different planet.

The East and Southern African safari circuit. Kruger in South Africa, Etosha in Namibia, Chobe in Botswana, Hwange in Zimbabwe, Amboseli and the Masai Mara in Kenya, Serengeti and Ngorongoro in Tanzania — each of these parks is large enough to spend a week in and still feel like you haven't seen it. The Ngorongoro Crater alone — a collapsed caldera sheltering a self-contained ecosystem with all the big animals — is one of the most extraordinary places on earth. Self-drive in Kruger is practical and affordable; the private concessions bordering national parks offer more exclusive experiences at higher prices.

West Africa's cultural depth. The Sahel cities of Mali — Timbuktu, Djenné, Mopti — were the intellectual and commercial heart of medieval Africa, and their ancient mosques and libraries are still standing. Ghana's Cape Coast and Elmina castles are essential visits for understanding the Atlantic slave trade; the Door of No Return at Goree Island off Dakar carries similar weight. The music coming out of Senegal, Mali, Nigeria, and Ghana is some of the richest on earth — catching a live show in Dakar or Accra is an experience most tourists miss entirely.

Indian Ocean islands. Madagascar is a destination unto itself — roughly 90 percent of its wildlife exists nowhere else on earth, including all 100-plus species of lemur. Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania offers spice tours, dhow sailing, and the Stone Town UNESCO heritage site alongside beaches. Mozambique's Quirimbas Archipelago and Seychelles are among the best diving destinations in the Indian Ocean.

Mountain trekking. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania is the highest point in Africa and climbable by most reasonably fit people — though altitude makes it serious work. The Simien Mountains in Ethiopia are less famous and arguably more spectacular, offering multi-day treks along escarpments inhabited by endemic gelada baboons. Morocco's High Atlas has good routes through Berber villages. The Rwenzori Mountains on the Uganda-DRC border — the "Mountains of the Moon" — are remote, perpetually mist-covered, and strange in a way that sticks with you.