Katutura sprawls north-west of central Windhoek and is home to most of the city's Black population. It started as a forced-removal township in 1959 and grew through subsequent decades into a vast, lively, mostly informal city of its own — corrugated-iron homes, small businesses, kapana grilled meat stalls, and shebeen bars. Several Windhoek-based tour operators run morning or evening tours that are worth taking if you want a sense of the country beyond the polite colonial centre.
The Single Quarters Market, the Penduka craft project on the edge of Goreangab Dam, and the Soweto Market (no relation to the South African one) are the usual stops. Independent visits are fine in daylight; at night take a registered taxi rather than walking.