The Oyster Box is the grande dame of Umhlanga — a 1947 colonial hotel next to the lighthouse, with sea-facing terraces, polished service and a famously good curry buffet. The dining room serves a 12-curry buffet at lunch and dinner that has been a local institution for decades, drawing equal numbers of hotel guests and Durbanites making the drive up.
The high tea, served on the seaview verandah, is similarly famous: tiered stands of sandwiches, scones and patisserie, with a string trio playing in the background. Both bookings essential. The hotel itself is one of the better luxury stays in the country, if budget allows — though we don't review hotels.