The covered fish market on the north quay of the old port is one of the genuinely interesting morning visits in northern Tunisia. Bizerte is one of the country's main fishing centres — its lake gives onto the Mediterranean through a deep natural channel — and the day's catch from the local fleet is laid out on the tiled slabs by about 7:30.
The variety is the show: bluefin tuna and bonito in summer, sea bream and red mullet year-round, swordfish, octopus, anchovies, sardines by the basket. Prices are negotiable but not by much; what you see is what locals are paying. The auctioneers shouting in Tunisian Arabic over the morning catch is one of the few moments in modern Bizerte that you could imagine had been happening unchanged for centuries.
Mornings only, roughly 7 to 11. The smell on hot afternoons is best avoided.