Bizerte's medina is small, low-key, and largely lived-in rather than touristed. The footprint is the tight wedge of streets between the old port to the south, the Kasbah to the north, and the hillside up to the Spanish Fort behind. Lanes are narrow and white-walled, mostly residential, with a sprinkling of bakeries, vegetable sellers, fishmongers, and the occasional small workshop.
There are no carpet sellers, no faux-Berber tat, and very little aimed at the tourist trade — which is what makes a wander through here more rewarding than the Sousse or Hammamet medinas. Late afternoon is the best time: doors open onto courtyards, children playing in the streets, the smell of evening cooking, the call to prayer carrying across the rooftops.
The two routes worth taking: from the old port up Rue des Forgerons (the blacksmiths' street, where you can still occasionally see metalwork done) to the Great Mosque, and the parallel climb from Place Bouchoucha up the hillside to the Spanish Fort viewpoint.